Where to Find Authentic Hiroshima-Style Okonomiyaki in London

Stepping into Jeux Jeux, tucked away near Waterloo, you might not immediately realise you're about to encounter something quite rare in London. The unassuming interior, functional rather than flashy, suggests a place focused on what truly matters: the food. And not just any food; Hiroshima style okonomiyaki, a dish that defies easy categorisation, is the star of the show.

For those unfamiliar, okonomiyaki is often likened to a savoury pancake, but this description does little justice to the Hiroshima style. Unlike its more common Osaka counterpart, which mixes ingredients into a batter before cooking, Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki is built in distinct layers. It starts with a thin crepe-like base, upon which a mound of finely shredded cabbage is heaped, followed by bean sprouts, pork belly, and a choice of seafood. A tangle of yakisoba or udon noodles is then added, before everything is crowned with a fried egg and generously brushed with a glossy, umami-rich okonomiyaki sauce. The result is a dish that is both hearty and delicately structured, offering a satisfying interplay of textures and flavours.

The challenge of preparing Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki lies in its complexity. Each layer must be cooked separately and assembled with precision, ensuring that the final dish holds together without collapsing into chaos. It’s a technique that requires skill and patience, which is why Jeux Jeux stands out: not just for attempting it, but for doing it remarkably well.

How Jeux Jeux Compares

Okonomiyaki in London is typically found in its Osaka-style form, with places like Okan and Abeno championing the mixed-batter approach. Jeux Jeux, however, fills a gap for those craving the layered Hiroshima variant. This makes it an intriguing choice, particularly for those who have travelled to Japan and long for a taste of something less commonly found outside its homeland.

While Okan offers a more budget-friendly introduction to Osaka-style okonomiyaki, with dishes typically priced around £10, Jeux Jeux sits at a slightly higher tier. The menu starts at around £12, climbing to £28 for premium options featuring ingredients like Wagyu. Abeno, known for its interactive table-side cooking, provides a different kind of experience altogether. An experience where the theatre of the meal is as much a draw as the food itself.

At Jeux Jeux, the experience is more straightforward. The canteen-like setup prioritises efficiency over spectacle. Service is brisk but friendly, with a menu that keeps its focus tight. If you’re in the mood for something beyond okonomiyaki, a few izakaya-style side dishes round out the offering, but make no mistake: this is a restaurant built around a singular, expertly executed speciality.

Authenticity and Execution

London’s Japanese food scene has matured significantly in recent years, yet okonomiyaki remains something of an outlier. Sushi, ramen, and yakitori all have their dedicated champions, but few places attempt the challenge of Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki. Jeux Jeux does an admirable job of bridging that gap.

Does it fully replicate the experience of sitting in a tiny Hiroshima okonomiyaki-ya, watching a master chef work the teppan? Perhaps not. The atmosphere, while pleasant, lacks the lived-in charm of an old-school Japanese eatery. The flavours, however, get surprisingly close. The sauce strikes the right balance of sweet and savoury, the cabbage retains just enough crunch, and the noodles integrate seamlessly into the dish rather than sitting as an afterthought.

For a business traveller, Jeux Jeux is a compelling option. The service is swift, making it feasible for a quick solo meal between meetings, while the menu offers a depth of flavour that transcends the usual grab-and-go options. It’s a place where you can step briefly out of the city’s relentless pace and into a moment of culinary immersion.

The Verdict

Jeux Jeux delivers something rare: a dish with deep regional roots, executed with care, in a city that often overlooks it. For those already acquainted with Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, it’s a welcome find. For newcomers, it’s an opportunity to taste a piece of Japan’s culinary landscape without leaving London.

It may not be the absolute pinnacle of okonomiyaki perfection, but it’s as close as you’re likely to get without boarding a plane. And for that, it’s worth seeking out.

Visit Jeux Jeux to reserve a table.